OK, so I wrote this for my website when properly up and running, but in the meantime here is a quick write-up ofhow I fitted this sub, hope it helps someone out there:
[email protected] said:So, with some spare time over the bank holiday weekend I decided to fit a Ripspeed PSR-135A under-seat active sub. This is not an expensive or overly powerful piece of kit, but it certainly improved the bass in the Juke and has allowed me to turn the bass down on the weak door speakers.
The sub comes with a wiring loom and remote, all I needed was a few connectors to tap into the required wires and a bit of velcro to stick it down. I bought the sub for my MINI a couple of years back but it cost about £40 so a very cheap improvement to the sound system.
My goal was to disturb as little of the car as possible and not to have to remove the Nissan Connect head unit, the following guide tells you how I did this, but please make your own decisions if you decided to follow this as I am no auto electrician and may have made some bad decisions that I am yet to discover :?
[email protected] said:First I had to repair the wiring loom where I had cut out the high-level input wires when it was fitted in the MINI. This was done with the help of a friend who had the tools to remove the pins:
So, now for the fitting, I decided to fit the sub under the drivers seat, first job was to run remote</font>, live</font>, earth and rear left speaker wires/input</font> from under the drivers seat to the passenger side sill trim. I attempted to run the wires over the carpet, keeping it under the seats, but it looked naff like so:
Therefore I decided the only way for it was to cut a small 'slit' in the carpet under the drivers seat to push the wires through and 'fish' them to the other side under the carpet. This was the hardest part of the whole job and I removed the rear door sill trims (carefully pull them off) and the rear bench seat (not so carefully pulls out) in order to allow me access to the under-carpet area with a straightened out wire coat hanger. The result in the end looks like so, you will see I left the high level input/speaker wires </font>disconnected from the loom for now:
Next was to find an earth point, luckily there is one in place and being used under the passenger side seat belt pillar trim, so I connected the earth wireto this using a ring/fork connector like so. In hindsight I then found one on the drivers side so would use this if re-fitting in future as best to keep the earth wire as short as possible:
Then for the live wire </font>connection. It is worth pointing out here that I am using a low-powered sub/amp combo so felt no need to run direct from the battery. I suggest removing front and rear passenger side sill trims and seat belt pillar trim. All just pull off using your fingers, be careful not to break anything (on the car, feel free to break as many fingers as you see fit). All the body clips on the seat belt pillar came out fine and have been re-used several times.
Now I needed to find my constant live feed, so I got out my multimeter and located a thicker yellow power cable (see image) running through the door sills and tapped the constant live</font> in to this using a scotch-lock connector then tapped it all back up like so:
Now for the remote wire</font>, bit more of a pain and I was running out of time so didn't take any photos. Basically undo the 7 screws holding in the glove box, pull the trim off the bottom, I removed the door of the golvebox too, pretty self-explanatory when you fiddle with it. Then carefully work the glovebox out with a bit of gentle pulling/tugging required in my case. From hear you can access the power cable going in to the back of the cigarette lighter socket. I was happy tapping in to this using a scotch lock connector, the only downside of using this as your ignition live is the sub will not switch off when the car is running and you power-off the connect headunit. Not really an issue for me as worst case the sub might give the occassional quiet 'pop' noise and that's it, plus I always have the stereo on when in the car.
Anyway, back to the remote wire</font>, so I have tapped it in to the cigarette lighter then simply ran behind/above the glovebox using cable ties to keep in place, from here you can run it to the front passenger door trim that you have removed and simply run it along the existing bundle of wires where you tapped into the constant live </font>.
Picture of the remote wire</font> tapped into cigarette lighter:
Now for the high level inputs </font>, these just come from the rear door speakers. I located the passenger side speaker wires under the seat belt pillar trim that I'd already removed, above. Basically it was a case of peeling back the tape holding together the bundle of wires running up the pillar. Within this I could see the light green</font> and white speaker wires twisted together:
So I used scotch lock connectors again to tap the +ve/-ve high level input wires</font> in to them, then taped it all up:
It appears I did not take any photos of the drivers side/right high level input</font>, it's an exact repeat of the passenger/left side though with the only difference being the colour of the speakers wires, pink </font>and grey if I recall correctly.
After this it was simply a case of put all the trims back on, finish off the wires on the loom, which is only an extra step as I cut them off in the MINI previously., then play about with it to get the base level where required! Pretty easy way to improve the quality of the sound in the Juke. I am sure door speaker upgrades will follow when I have time.
I neglected to take any photos of the actual sub fitted so will grab some later and update this post accordingly...
Any questions then please ask.
:arrow: I would like to repeat that I am not a trained professional and have no idea what I am doing so try this at your own risk!!</font>